An End Fed Halfwave Antenna for Portable Ops

I’m a very casual operator, and an even more casual portable operator. My main reason for not putting much effort into portable operation is that when I go out into nature, I want to enjoy my surroundings and not be distracted by radios. It sounds like an excuse, but it’s true. I spend quite a lot of time hunched over the bench and over my radios at home so when I go out, I don’t want to do the same. I’m more the kind of guy who builds small rigs, then operates them from the comfort of my own home. However, I had to take the SST out at least once simply to prove that I can!

The antenna needed to be compact and lightweight, as did the method of matching it. I just didn’t feel like carrying lots of boxes and interconnecting cables up the hill, and having to fiddle with them all once up there. An end-fed halfwave, often referred to by the acronym EFHW, seemed to be a good choice, as it only requires a support at the far end. I saw photos that Steve WG0AT had posted on Facebook of his little EFHW, with the matching unit built into a dental floss container, for a light and compact solution. I wanted an antenna that small and lightweight! Steve referenced a blog post by TJ W0EA, in which TJ detailed an EFHW matching unit he had made, based on the one in his Par End Fedz antenna. This little matching unit, that transforms the high impedance present at the end of a half-wave length of wire into the much lower impedance of 50 ohm coax, consists of a wideband transformer wound on a ferrite core, and a 150pF fixed capacitor. That’s it. Simple and compact!

What to put it in, was the big question. I spent several weeks looking in stores for suitable small containers, and finally decided on a Carmex lip-balm tube. Here it is with the lip-balm removed –

The remaining tube still has a corkscrew-like central element that needs removing –

It is a fairly simple matter to grasp  the corkscrew with a pair of long and slim needle-nose pliers, and push it until it pops out. You can discard the corkscrew, as it is not needed. The 2 parts on the left of the next picture, the snap-on lid and the main cylinder, are what you want –

The following pictures should show you how it all goes together. A plastic cable tie prevents the RG174 from pulling out of the bottom, and a generous squodge of hot glue keeps the toroid in check. If you have a dual temperature glue gun, use the hotter setting –

This matching unit is designed to work with a half-wavelength wire. Some folk build it so that they can change the wire length for different bands. I decided to make this a permanent 20M antenna, so started with about 36 feet, and continued to trim it down until the center frequency was close to 14060, at which point the SWR was 1.1:1. Not bad! I’ll state the obvious by reminding you that any antenna does need to be reasonably clear of nearby objects, particularly anything conductive, in order to make meaningful measurements. Laying it on the ground isn’t going to cut it – you need to suspend one end up in the air and have the antenna clear of obstructions. This is what my final EFHW looked like, all bundled up and ready for the trail, with a 10 foot length of RG174 –

Interestingly, a few days later, I checked the SWR again, only to find that although the center frequency was the same, the SWR at that point was higher, at about 1.4:1. The only thing that had changed was that the first time I measured the SWR, I was powering my MFJ SWR Analyzer from a “wall wart” transformer while the second time, it was powered from internal batteries. I’m thinking that the first time around, the AC wiring in the house was providing a bigger counterpoise and helping to lower the SWR at resonance. It might be interesting to try connecting a counterpoise wire at the rig to see if it reduces SWR any, but I did like the added simplicity of no counterpoise.

How does it work? I bundled the SST, antenna, small sealed lead acid battery, paddle from QRP Guys, and a few other things into my backpack, and cycled up to Vollmer Peak, a local high spot in the Berkeley Hills. I left rather late, had lunch on the way, and by the time I got up to the top, spent about 30 minutes eating trail mix and looking at the view, before realizing that I didn’t have much time. I didn’t get the antenna very high in the tree, and sat on the ground, listening, finishing off the trail mix, and putting out a few CQ’s before heading back down the hill. End result = no QSO’s, but I did get spots on the Reverse Beacon Network from Colorado, Arizona, and Alberta. The antenna works – it’s the operator who performs better in a cozy indoor shack 🙂

There is really only one more thing to try with my SST, and that is, as I mentioned in this post, to add extra filtering between the TX mixer and the buffer/driver. I think that a lot of harmonic energy is making it to the final and being amplified, before being filtered out by the LPF in the antenna lead. Better to nip all those naughty harmonics earlier in the process, I think. If I do any more work on it, that will be the focus.

Thanks to Ian MW0IAN (great callsign) for clueing me in to this PDF on the G0KYA EFHW.

 

35 thoughts on “An End Fed Halfwave Antenna for Portable Ops

  1. Dave

    Vollmer is a SOTA peak (W6/NC-298). You can post an alert to announce intent to operate and then spot once ready to transmit via sotawtch.org and I think you will get a lot of SOTA chasers from across the US.

    You need to create a SOTA account which is free and easy.

    Paul W6PNG

    1. I know Paul, but I didn’t want to deal with a pile-up. Just wanted to get up there and have, at most, 2 or 3 QSO’s, then head down the hill. Good to hear from you and I’ve said it before, but I always really enjoy seeing the landscape shots on your blog!

      73,

      Dave
      AA7EE

  2. Nice use of everyday items….. neat and tidy as well as practical…. excellent work Dave as usual… will be looking at the weekend for a tube of Carmex and warming up the soldering iron as well as getting in the junk box…. thanks for the info…. best regards Lyndon….UK

    1. I was wanting to use something found around the house, for maximum frugality, but the Carmex tube seemed perfect, and wasn’t exactly a high-priced item! Best of luck with yours, Lyndon. Let me know how it goes.

      73,
      Dave
      AA7EE

    1. This particular time Jack, there were several factors that prevent me from being able to comment on the reception. The rig I had with me only covers a 9KHz portion of the 20M band – that was the only reception capability I had. In addition, due to the current poor and very changeable conditions from day to day, it’s hard for me to know whether the stations I was hearing were louder than if I had been listening on my home station. On top of that, I was only QRV for about 30 minutes. However, I was up there a couple of times a few years ago with an FT817 and can testify that the reception and transmission on 2M and 6M is great. I was operating just a few watts in a VHF contest and had quite a pile-up going on. I was also hearing a lot more 10M beacons than I would have down at ground level. Vollmer Peak is about 1900 ASL which, in an area where most of the surrounding terrain is close to sea level, puts you at a considerable advantage.

      In short, VHF is great on Vollmer, and I don’t have enough experience operating HF there in order to make a judgement.

      Hope that helps some,

      73 for now,

      Dave
      AA7EE

      1. Thanks Dave, I’ve been to Tillden Park several times. My sister lives in Berkeley and has a clear shot from here home of the Bay Bridge, the City and down the Peninsula. It would be great for VHF. One time when I was in the Park I saw a mountain lion and I noticed there is a road called “Wildcat Canyon Road” the goes through the park.

  3. Hi Dave, nice job I love the lip balm tube! I also like EFHWs, I use a 40m version with a counterpoise and a 4:1 balun at the alt QTH for both QRP and QRO, with a tuner I can load up 80-10 meters on it. For a portable version that covers 80 -10, take a look at the QRP kits SOTA tuner kit. I have one of these and love it – small, light and versatile.
    Thanks for a great post
    Mike N2HTT

    1. Great to hear from you, as always, Mike. I had been wondering about the QRP kits SOTA tuner. Good to know that it gets your approval. I will bear it in mind!

      73 for now,

      Dave
      AA7EE

    1. – and you even have a built-in SWR indicator on the 817, so that you’ll know the antenna is still in the ball-park when you’re out in the field. Hope it works out well for you Chris!

      73,

      Dave
      AA7EE

  4. Hi, I really like this idea and I want to build it but I have a hard time understanding the winding. Is it 3 turns primary, 27 turns secondary? And, are the 3 turns making contact at all with the 27 turns? Thanks? I have a bunch of t50-6 lying around, could I use those?

    1. Hi Daniel –

      Yes, it’s 3 turns on the side connected to the rig, and 27 turns on the side connected to the antenna. The turns on each side don’t make electrical contact, so you need to use insulated wire. The wire I use has an enamel covering. If you’re using wire with a plastic covering, you’ll need to use a larger toroidal core so you can fit it all on.

      I wouldn’t use the T50-6’s. This is a broadband transformer, and the powdered iron cores of the “T” types are probably too high Q for this application. You need a ferrite core, which is denoted by the “FT” prefix. The size doesn’t matter – it’s the turns ratio. I used an FT37 core because they’re small. The 43 denotes the exact type of material, so I’d look for an FT core with the 43 number at the end. The 37 figure indicates the size. Try looking at W8DIZ’ site for more info on toroids.

      Good luck!

      Dave
      AA7EE

      1. 28 AWG actually. The size isn’t critical, as long it’s not too large that all the turns won’t fit on the core. 24 AWG would probably also work for an FT37-43 core.

        73,

        Dave
        AA7EE

  5. How do you expect this transformer would perform on 40m? I’ve got a BitX40 in the mail and a bunch of FT37-43s floating around the shack. Other designs I’ve seen on the net call for a bigger toroid (FT140-43) for the xfmr, but I’d rather not order them on their own and pay shipping on something so small; I’m currently saving for a 1-Watter from W8DIZ, but that order won’t be for a while yet.

    I’ve got a nice little box with coax, counterpoise and wire terminal affixed already, and I’d rather not ruin it with a transformer I know won’t work. Such is the plight of the full-time student. ;P

    1. Seth – it’s a wideband transformer, so will work fine on 40M. You just have to make sure to use a piece of wire that is a half-wave on your desired band of operation. 43-type material is specified as being good for 5 – 400MHz. I think the main advantage a bigger core would give you, as with the FT140-43, would be in power handling. For QRP power levels though, this little antenna should be fine.

      73,

      Dave
      AA7EE

    1. I’m afraid not Rusty, because I don’t know what it is. I had some multi-core stranded cable, separated out the individual stranded wires, soldered them together to create the length I wanted, and used that. It’s a light gauge though – definitely significantly thinner than 22 gauge.

  6. Hey, another question: how do you keep the cap on the housing from pulling off when the wire is deployed?

    Rob
    KB7PWJ

    1. That’s a good question Rob, and the answer is – it doesn’t pull off. At least, mine didn’t. No extra precautions needed. I’m sure if you pulled hard enough, you could get it to happen but in practice, this didn’t happen to me. Much would depend, of course, on the exact container used.

      73,

      Dave
      AA7EE

  7. One trick I’ve seen on winding the transformer is to first put on the primary (3 turns in this case), then add the REST of the secondary (primary is now part of the secondary, IE:autotransformer). Put half the turns on then continue winding in the same direction from the other side of the toroid (next to where you started the primary). This way the input and ground will be directly opposite the output of the coil for max voltage distance (less arcing over). You will have the winding cross over the core halfway through this way. The 1:9 ratio is typical for this kind of antenna, though one can vary this slightly if necessary. Counterpoise isn’t required if the feedline is long enough, the outside of the coax is your counterpoise!

    I have some FT140-43 and FT114-43 cores and might try this type of antenna, but I’ll use RG8X for the feeder. Should be able to handle 50-100W with those.

  8. Just a quick note – the tubes that travel-sized Tylenol or Advil come in worked great for me – they have a gasket seal and a locking lid, so no chance of pulling apart on windy days, and they aren’t much bigger than a Carmex tube… with this antenna added to my SW20+ I’ve got a nice 20m kit that fits in a stuff sack! Thanks!

    -73 de NZ5G Jeff

  9. Just getting back to you: I built this antenna to your spec and have had very good results. I’ve been running it side by side with my usual random wire+tuner, and the AA7EE auto-t EFHWA consistently spots as well or better on the RBN, in spite of the fact that my rig loads a watt or two short of its 8 watt longwire output, and the longwire is twice as long (and therefore twice as high).

    I’ve been attaching the AA7EE directly to the rig with about two feet of coax, and it works fine. I also applied a strip of electrical tape to the tube lid just to ensure it doesn’t come apart, but since I always anchor the radiator with a longwire block anyway, it doesn’t really need it. Mostly a “what-if” measure. My radiator is about 20 gauge, I think, because I had some on-hand.

    Very pleased to have my big old ATU, which is twice the size of my 20m monobander, finally busted off my ankle. Next stop: build another AA7EE with radiator swapability, so I can use it on 30 and 40 as well.

    One question: what would you rate the maximum output power this transformer can handle?

    And a side note: it seems to me that one of those robust clear plastic tubes that solder comes in would also work as a housing, though it’s a little longer than it needs to be.

    Thanks again, Dave. This is a really simple and effective solution. (I’m all about simple and effective.)

    Rob
    KB7PWJ

  10. I’m really glad this antenna is working for you Rob. Not sure what the maximum power handling would be, but I feel sure you’d be fine with the QRP full gallon (5W), and probably a little more.

    73 for now,

    Dave
    AA7EE

  11. Hi Dave,

    That was weird! I was reading your post and came across my callsign. Glad you found the EFHW info useful. Just wanted to say that I love your site and your OCD method of construction 😉

    Steve G0KYA

    1. Steve – great to hear from you. I hope you don’t mind me linking to the PDF of your article on your EFHW. It is very informative, and makes for good reading.

      73 for now!

      Dave
      AA7EE

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